Why Use a Paint Sprayer

Painting large areas can be fast, simple and easy if you would pick the right tool and use it the proper way. For large-scale painting jobs that involve surfaces with cracks, bumps, gaps and other imperfections, a paint sprayer may be a wise and practical choice. Paint sprayers also allow one to efficiently and flawlessly tackle and cover surfaces with complex or intricate designs.

Paint sprayers come in different sizes, models, and power ranges. Identifying which type of paint sprayer would be most appropriate for your paint job requirement would depend on the size, material, and complexity of your surface. The suitability of the type of paint sprayer that you would be using for your paint job is very vital to achieving or realizing your desired result or output.

Below are a couple of reasons why best paint sprayers have gained popularity among professional painters and many homeowners.

  1. It’s fast and reliable

Compared to using a paint brush or a roller, which usually take not just a lot of time but also a great deal of effort to cover an entire surface, using a paint sprayer offers not just efficiency but also reliability.


Paint rollers, because of their size and shape, are not ideal for painting small and hard-to-reach spaces such as nooks and corners of a wall, sides between the narrow gaps of a wooden chair, or a piece of furniture with intricate details.  On the other hand, it is quite difficult to make coatings with uniform thickness when using a paint brush.

Moreover, paint rollers can leave scratches if you would force to squeeze it into hard-to-reach spots. Conversely, paint brushes can create unsightly bumps and uneven coatings on your surface since paint may not evenly stick onto the paint brush.

Fortunately, we are not left without a better option or alternative. There are several types of paint sprayers that you may choose from so you can be sure to find one that was made for your paint job requirement.

2Surfaces, which are impossible to be perfectly and flawlessly covered using a paint brush or a roller, can be easily done by properly using the appropriate type of paint sprayer. This is because paint sprayers emit paint in the form of mists or tiny particles, which are able to reach nooks and corners without leaving scratches and paint bumps on your surface.

However, you should also consider if the size or scale of surface you would be working on would be worth the time you would spend for doing prep works and for cleaning the sprayer.

If your budget would allow and you think you would be doing a lot of small paint jobs in the future, then you may consider investing in an HVLP [High Volume Low Pressure] sprayer, which is good for small-scale paint jobs. There are also HVLP sprayers, which may be used with lacquer, varnish or sanding sealers but these types are usually sold at a high price.

  1. There’s a wide range of choices

As mentioned earlier, paint sprayers come in different types, sizes, as well as power-ranges designed and made available for household or professional use. Two of the most common types are the air paint sprayers, which use compression to pump paint out, and the airless paint sprayers, which use pressure to eject the paint.

Air paint sprayers are able to produce more uniform and even coatings than their airless counterparts but are also generally more expensive. When buying a paint sprayer, pick the most appropriate type that fits your budget.


Note also that there are paint sprayer models that are able to handle only one type of paint, and there are some advanced models that can be used with more than one type of paint. There are also models that may be adjusted according to the thickness of the paint that will be used at a certain time.

For small-scale paint jobs, you may opt to use a portable type of paint sprayer. Painting large structures, on the other hand, would normally require using bigger types or models of paint sprayers.

Paint sprayers can range from a hundred to a thousand dollars depending on the type and model. They can be cordless, electricity-powered, or gas-powered. Some models also come with carts or portable wheels.

Whichever model you choose to use, make sure you that you put on the proper gears such as goggles, gloves and a respirator to keep you safe and protected while painting.

This blanket chest is built using frame and panel construction

This blanket chest fits comfortably at the foot of a bed, and can be used as a bench as well. It’s built in the traditional Mission style, but we opted to soften the look by using rift-sawn rather than quarter-sawn white oak. You’ll notice that the rift-sawn oak has a very straight grain in contrast to the wavy grain pattern of quarter-sawn oak. And we chose a lighter, natural finish instead of the dark finish typical of the Mission style.

In spite of its sophisticated look, it’s not difficult to build. All of the joints are cut on a table saw, and the whole thing goes together quickly once you’ve cut the mortise grooves and tenons. You may not find rift-sawn white oak locally, but we’ve supplied a mail order source for it, as well as for the hardware you’ll need (see the Shopping List, p. 82).

Materials for the blanket chest cost about $250. If you consider you skill level to be about average, plan to spend two to three weekends building it.


Nothing too unusual here. You’ll need a table saw with a miter gauge and a stacking-type dado blade, a jigsaw, belt sander, orbital sander, flat bastard file, six 20-in. bar or pipe clamps and two 48-in. pipe clamps.

Test all of your cutting setups on scrap wood first before making your final cuts. If you think you may want to stain your blanket chest, make test samples on scrap pieces to see how it looks.


  • 1. Make the top (B) by edge-gluing together five 3-11/16 in. x 44-in. boards (Photo 1).
  • 2. Make each leg (A) by “laminating” (gluing together face to face) two 3/4-in. x 2-3/4 in. x 18-1/4 in. boards.
  • 3. Now cut all the pieces (A through M) to the dimensions given in the Cutting List on p. 82. Don’t cut the 45-degree beveled edges of the legs, or the arched shapes of the bottom rails (C and D) yet.
  • 4. Cut the panel and mortise grooves, and the tenons using a table saw (see “Cutting the Mortise-and-Tenon Joints,” below).
  • 5. Using a table saw, cut the 45-degree beveled edges of the legs (A). It’s easy to make a mistake here. Make sure to cut them so the panel grooves are closest to the inside edges (see Fig. A).
  • 6. Using the grid shapes in Fig. A, make full-size templates for each half of the arched shapes of the bottom rails (C and D). Trace the shapes on the bottom rails, then cut them with a jigsaw. Smooth the sawn edges with a flat bastard file, then sandpaper (Photo 4).
  • 7. Glue and clamp the legs (A) together. Use masking tape to hold the joints closed as the glue dries (Photo 5).
  • 8. Fill the lower 3/4 in. of the panel grooves in the legs using short pieces of rift-sawn white oak (Photo 6).
  • 9. Finish-sand the panel groove edges of the stiles, rails and legs using 150-grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood. Be careful not to round over the edges. Finish-sand the panels (L and M) using an orbital sander and 150-grit sandpaper, then 180-grit.
  • 10. Assemble the front and back by gluing together the stiles and rails (E, C and F) with the two center panels (L) in place (Photo 7). Next, finish-sand the faces of the stiles and rails. Slide the remaining panels (L) in their grooves, then glue and clamp the legs in place. Assemble the sides the same way, then glue and clamp the front and back to the sides to finish assembling the box.
  • 11. Finish-sand the top (B) and bottom (K), and any other unsanded surfaces with 150-grit, then 180-grit sandpaper. Sand all the sharp edges smooth. Cover the panels with a piece of cardboard to protect them from scratches as you sand the edges of the surrounding pieces.
  • 12. Lay out, countersink and drill the screw holes in the cleats (H and J), then screw the cleats in place as shown in Fig. A.
  • 13. Turn the chest over and place the support on the underside of the top, then align it using the dimensions given in Fig. A and Photo 8. Mount the combination hinge and lid supports (see Shopping List) to the sides of the chest using the mounting instructions included in the package. Now screw the hinges to the top (inset to Photo 8). Be sure to drill pilot holes.
  • 14. Apply three coats of Danish oil to the wood, then let the finish dry for about a week, or until the smell is gone.
  • 15. Remount the top, slide the bottom in from above, screw it in place from underneath, and you’re done.



This blanket chest is built using “frame and panel” construction. The panel (L and M) fit into grooves cut into the edges of their surrounding legs, rails and stiles (A, and C through G). These grooves are also used as he mortises that accept the tenon ends of the stiles and rails.

All the cutting is done on a table saw. For consistently good-fitting joints, all of the pieces to be joined, except for the legs (A), must be the same thickness. Here’s how it’s done.

Cut the grooves first. Mount a standard 1/8-in. kerf saw blade in your table saw. Set the blade, so it’s 3/8 in. high, and set the saw’s fence 9/32 in. away from the blade. Use a scrap piece of wood to test the setup. Cut the first half of the groove, flip the piece around so the opposite face is against the fence, and cut the other half of the grove. Check the fit of the panels (L and M) in the groove. If the fit is too tight or loose, adjust the fence in or out, and retest the setup. The panels should slide easily in the grooves but not be too loose. When the setup’s right, cut the grooves in the stiles and rails (C through G), as shown in Photo 2.

Without changing the grove cutting setup, cut the inside half of the panel grooves in all eight legs, plus one scrap piece to test the next setup. Now move the saw’s fence about 1/6 in. away from the blade, run the piece through the saw the same way and cut the outside half of the panel groove of the test piece. Check the fit of the panels in the groove of the test piece, then make any necessary adjustments before cutting the grooves in the leg pieces.

Cut the tenons next. Mount a 1/2-in. wide dado blade in your table saw, and set the height lower than the table of the table saw. Clamp an auxiliary wooden fence to your table saw’s fence to protect the blade. Set the saw’s fence so the auxiliary fence is 1/8-in. over the dado blade to cut 3/8-in. long tenons. Turn the saw on, slowly raise the dado blade until it’s about 1/4 in. high, then turn the saw off. Attach a wooden fence to your miter gauge and cut a test tenon on scrap wood. Cut one side, then flip the piece over and cut the other side. Test the fit in the panel grooves. Adjust the setup until the tenons fit snugly in the grooves of the scrap piece, then cut the tenons on the ends of the stiles and rails (C through G), as shown in Photo 3. Now return to Step 5 on p. 80 for assembly instructions.